Vermicomposting Vs Composting: What Are the Differences?

Probably the most misleading thing about vermicomposting is that it includes the word “composting.”

Wikipedia tells us compost is “organic matter that has been decomposed and recycled as a fertilizer and soil amendment.”

And while that is a fitting description of vermicompost as a product, it might send the wrong message about vermicomposting as a process.

This leads to some pretty bad outcomes to people who treat composting and vermicomposting as the same thing. These outcomes include:

  • tossing worms into a 150°F hot compost pile (or tumbler) when 95°F would actually start cooking them to death
  • introducing worms to a 6ft-high compost pile and expecting them to process it top-to-bottom

Note: This article is part of a “Vermicomposting 101” series of posts aimed at helping the beginning vermicomposter. The read other “VC101” articles on how to start a worm bin, how to choose worm food, how to maintain moisture, and the differences between composting and vermicomposting, please visit the Vermicomposting 101 section of this site!

What Are the Differences Between Composting and Vermicomposting?

Heat Levels in Compost Piles vs Vermicompost Bins

Composting: Compost piles are typically hot as the aerobic breakdown of organic matter releases carbon dioxide and heat, resulting in piles than can top 150°F. This is good because the heat can kill the pathogens present in your compost input.

Vermicomposting: Composting with worms is a necessarily cooler process with temperatures ranging between 50-90°F. The downside to less heat is that vermicomposting will not kill as many pathogens present in the food waste, manure, or whatever you’re feeding your worms. (While studies show vermicomposting *does* kill some pathogens, it is not as effective as thermophilic composting which kills most pathogens.)

One caveat here!  Worms can move into a cooled compost pile, which is good.  Conversely, hot composting can take place in worm bins that have been overfed….bad!

Microbial Populations in Compost vs Vermicompost

Composting: Since traditional compost piles can get hot, they are dominated by thermophilic (or “heat-loving”) microbes that can thrive in those temperatures.

Vermicomposting: Worm compost is dominated by mesophilic microbes that require more moderate temperatures.

Speed of Processing

Composting: It’s sloooooow. A hot compost pile can take 6-9 months to finish.

Vermicomposting: Much faster. A vermicompost bin can become “finished” and ready for harvesting in as little as 8-12 weeks.


Composting: Again, the depth of compost piles necessitates that they be turned in order to ensure all input materials get processed. You can use rolled chicken wire or landscape cloth to create “chimneys” to help oxygenate the insides of a compost pile, but they will still require some amount of turning.

Vermicomposting: These magical worms actually do your turning for you!  And because vermicomposting bins are relatively shallow, turning is not required, especially in continuous flow-through digesters!

Space Required

Composting: Because hot compost piles are deep, you typically don’t need that much space for a given volume of compost.

Vermicomposting: The epigeic earthworms used in vermicomposting do not burrow and will only work the top 6-12 inches of material, so available surface area, not depth is the limiting factor.  You can get creative and stack your bins or devise a way to make the most out of your space, but as a general rule, vermicomposting does not lend itself to processing massive amounts of waste at one time.

Cost of Composting Vs Vermicomposting

Composting: Composting is cheap!  Just find a surface you don’t mind using for composting and just start layering on your browns and greens.  Nothing to it.

Vermicomposting: Vermicomposting isn’t expensive, but you do have to buy the worms and a bin unless you want to make one yourself. While this doesn’t necessarily cost anything, there is a requirement to protect your worms from extreme elements, which means going through the hassle of reserving space and the possible expense of heating or cooling your vermicomposting area.

Financial Value of Compost vs Vermicompost

Composting: The compost itself is cheap too! You can often get it for free from a local municipality for no more than the cost of delivering it.  I get 5 yards for about $30 from my township.  You can buy some higher quality stuff, but rarely more than $30 for a single yard.

Vermicomposting: Vermicompost has a much greater financial value.  And depending upon the quantity, region, and season, you can pay (or receive!) $300-1200 per cubic yard for it. (Selling in bulk obviously occurs at the lower end of that range.)

Check out worm castings made by the Urban Worm Company!

Summary: Don’t Let the Names Fool You! Vermicomposting is Different from Composting

When it comes down to it, vermicomposting is a physical process under moderate temperatures using techniques dictated by the limitations of the worms’ burrowing and eating capacity and tolerance of environmental conditions. It is best suited for faster processing of smaller quantities of waste.

Composting on the other hand, is a more chemical process, occurring under high temperatures and not bound by limitations on depth. And while hot composting is slower, it is better suited to processing large amounts of waste.

So don’t let the name fool you!  And don’t let your neighbor toss Red Wigglers into a hot compost pile!

If you’re ready to get going and start vermicomposting at home, at work, or in school, I’d be thrilled if you checked out the Urban Worm Bag, an attractive bin with a breathable flow through design, manufactured by the Urban Worm Company!

13 thoughts on “Vermicomposting Vs Composting: What Are the Differences?

  1. Perhaps, instead of criticising Wiki about it’s explanation of vermicomposting, you should get someone to proofread your article as it makes little sense the way it is written.

    1. Hi Schnucks. I take pride in the quality of the English on here. I would be happy to fix any grammatical errors you find.

    2. Funny that you criticize the quality of the post’s English, Schnucks, when you can’t seem to differentiate between “it’s” and “its”.

  2. Hi Mr Kumar,
    While I am not familiar with the term “organic manure,” I would imagine that could be a decent name for it with the one caveat being that I would not use the term organic (in the US anyways) without being “certified organic” which can be a difficult and costly designation to receive.

  3. Very disapointed today after almost 2 months of using the Worm Factory 360 had 3 bins running and today I see thousands of small white bugs. I looked at them under a optical loop so i could relly see them. they have little anteni and wings but to your eye they look like a small thread. In twelve hours I think the numbers went times ten. I hate them I was feeding lots of good food and put in a blender and did get a watery stew. So probably it got to wet and now ii’ll try not feeding every day and opening the lid up and dry it up. I’ll see if it cleans up otherwise I will be the guy who says raising things like worms are for a science teacher and go back to hydroponic ferts and nuits. Stop this or buy worm castings, but I hear when you buy it its not the same its not full of billions of organisms like when you do it yourself ? Anyway everyone happy worming

    1. Hi Steven,
      Make sure you’re adding some bedding (shredded paper/cardboard/other things high in carbon) with your feedings. It’s not necessary for ALL feedings, but is necessary over time. It sounds like your WF360 has gotten too wet and that you have mites, which are generally attracted to wet areas.
      Add some dry bedding and keep the tray open/uncovered for a few days and see what that does for you.

      And you’re correct that store-bought castings will be of less biological value than castings you make yourself.

  4. it seems you covered most of the composting and vermi-composting process.
    what I would like to add is , microbes and small organisms play vital roles in composting processes, especially in the winter season. as I have around 15-20 kg of kitchen waste every week , I am making both vermi-compost and composting in order I can use them in the next farming season.

  5. I get a lot of worms near the top of my compost pile, I have automatic sprayers above the pile and they are watered twice a week. Can I use these worms in my garden?

    1. Hi Bob,
      If these are native worms, the answer is likely yes. But if they are composting worms that you introduced to a cooling compost pile, then chances are, they are not muscular enough to burrow into your garden soil which will likely be much more dense and compacted than your compost pile.

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